So many meats, so little time
6/27/2007
Vegetarians may say that grazing is the key to health, harmony and happiness, but I am still not convinced.
Nothing makes my day more complete than eating something that once flew, swam or ran. It is easy to deny yourself the pleasure of a flame-broiled hamburger now and then, but no one can deny that we are predators. If not, we would all have eyes on the sides of our heads, like chickens, cows, and the girl I danced with at senior prom.
Some foods are simply too hard to resist, and there is a vast array of must-eat meats out there to not only please your palate, but expand your mind and gratify your soul.
To begin with, don’t ignore the simple pleasure of the lowly pork rind. The ingredient list, pork and salt, should qualify it as health food. Some brands add lard, but that is rather redundant. The pig provides enough of his own.
For the connoisseur, there is Kobe beef. This product of Japan sees the cow fed a diet of beer and daily massages, until the richly marbled flesh is more white than red. No need to worry about animal cruelty here. Kobe beef cattle are cookhouse royalty, and flat-out delicious.
Grinding Kobe into a burger only misses the point, and the point is fat. I now eat ten per cent less fat, than a bowl of fat, so take it from a man who knows. Try it raw, shaved into paper-thin slices, and drizzled with flavoured oil.
If a Japanese cow with a daily rubdown seems out of your price range, try horse. Apparently, it is sweeter, leaner and redder than beef. Never having eaten a horse, I’ll have to trust the research on this one. Eating horse is traditional in other countries, and still legal in ours, just in case someone you know is so hungry they could eat one.
Before you throw the dog a bone, give the marrow a try for yourself. Wobbly, greasy and always rich, it is surprisingly tasty. Scoop out the centre of boiled or roasted beef bones, spread bone marrow on toast, and salt to taste. Ossobuco, or braised veal shanks, offer delicious marrow.
If innards are still your thing after a good feed of bone marrow, there is always foie gras. French for “fat liver”, this delicacy is mired today in ethical controversy. Some restaurants now ban the fattened livers of force-fed duck and geese, but you can still enjoy it here, while it's legal.
Then again, there is no point in getting too fancy. I personally recommend anything cooked over a wood fire. Propane barbecues do a reliable job, while most charcoal is made from good old coal, but there is no substitute for red hot hardwood coals. Take the time to do it up right.
Wild game is a favourite of many meat lovers, and a staple in rural and northern areas throughout our fair country. Venison and moose can be prepared in as many ways as your imagination can cook up, and the meat is great tasting and good for your overall well being.
If you are lucky enough to have a wild turkey at your disposal, try skinning it, giving it a bacon jacket to wear, and roasting it alongside a pork roast. This will keep it moist, and the blend of flavours will be remarkable.
Keep an open mind and try something different this summer. If it doesn’t work out, there’s always vegetables.